Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (VC-IP) – Stable Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Derivative for Advanced Skin Care
Basic Information
CAS Number: 183476-82-6
Molecular Formula: ~C₇₀H₁₂₈O₁₀
Molecular Weight: ~1129–1130 g/mol
Appearance: Colorless to light yellow oily liquid with a slight characteristic odor
Purity: ≥98%
Color (APHA): ≤100
Specific Gravity: 0.930–0.943
Refractive Index (25°C): 1.459–1.465
Heavy Metals: ≤20 ppm
Arsenic: ≤2 ppm
Solubility: Soluble in oils and organic solvents; practically insoluble in water
Storage: 5–25°C, protected from light and oxidizing agents
Overview
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (also known as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, VC-IP) is a highly stable, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Pure vitamin C is notoriously unstable and difficult to formulate due to its rapid oxidation and poor skin penetration. By esterifying ascorbic acid with tetrahexyldecyl (isopalmitic acid) groups, this derivative offers significantly enhanced stability, lipophilicity, and skin penetration. Once absorbed, the active vitamin C is released, providing the full spectrum of benefits associated with this powerful antioxidant.
Mechanism of Action
VC-IP exerts its effects through multiple pathways:
Antioxidant activity: Neutralizes free radicals generated by UV exposure and environmental pollutants, protecting cells from oxidative damage.
Collagen synthesis: Stimulates collagen production, improving skin firmness and elasticity while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Melanin inhibition: Reduces tyrosinase activity and melanin production, effectively brightening skin and treating hyperpigmentation.
DNA protection: Helps protect skin cells from UV-induced DNA damage.
Moisture retention: Acts as a humectant, improving skin hydration and reducing roughness.
Key Benefits
Sun protection: Enhances the skin's defense against UV-induced damage.
Post-sun recovery: Supports skin repair and reduces photoaging effects.
Antioxidant: Superior protection against oxidative stress compared to pure vitamin C.
Hydration: Improves skin moisture levels and reduces dryness.
Collagen stimulation: Promotes firmer, more youthful skin.
Brightening: Effectively reduces hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone.
Applications
Anti-aging creams and serums: For collagen stimulation and wrinkle reduction.
Sunscreen formulations: Enhances UV protection and prevents photoaging.
Brightening and pigment-correction products: Treats hyperpigmentation, age spots, and melasma.
Moisturizing products: Provides hydration and improves skin texture.
Dermatological studies: Investigated for its efficacy in skin regeneration and protection.
Recommended Use
Typical dosage in cosmetic formulations: 0.5–3.0% by weight. For optimal results, incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions or anhydrous systems at temperatures not exceeding 50–60°C. The product is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, including other antioxidants, peptides, and UV filters.
Handling and Storage
Store in a cool, dry place at 5–25°C, protected from light and oxidizing agents.
Keep containers tightly sealed to prevent contamination and degradation.
Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.
Shelf life: typically 24 months under recommended storage conditions.
Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for purity, color, specific gravity, refractive index, and heavy metal content to ensure consistent quality.