Polyglyceryl Cocoate

Polyglyceryl Cocoate – Mild Non-Ionic Emulsifier for Skin and Hair Care

Basic Information

• INCI Name: Polyglyceryl Cocoate (various grades available, e.g., Polyglyceryl-2 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Cocoate)

• CAS Number: Varies by grade (commonly 30993-33-8 for polyglyceryl cocoates)

• Synonyms: Polyglycerol cocoate, polyglyceryl coconut fatty acid ester

• Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or waxy solid (depending on the degree of polymerization)

• HLB Value: Ranges from ~8 to ~12 depending on the grade (suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions)

• Solubility: Dispersible in water and oils; soluble in organic solvents

• Origin: Plant-derived (polyglycerin from glycerol, coconut fatty acids from coconut oil)

• Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from light and moisture

Chemical Structure and Synthesis
Polyglyceryl cocoate is produced by the esterification of polyglycerin (a polymer of glycerol) with coconut fatty acids (a mixture of lauric, myristic, palmitic, and other medium-chain fatty acids). The general structure can be represented as:
(Gly)n–O–CO–R
where (Gly)n is the polyglycerol block, and R represents the coconut fatty acid chain. The degree of polymerization (n) can vary (typically 2–10), allowing for adjustment of the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) and emulsifying properties. The synthesis is carried out under controlled conditions with acid or base catalysts to achieve the desired esterification degree.

Physicochemical Properties

• Mildness – low irritation potential, suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.

• Emulsifying activity – effectively reduces interfacial tension, stabilizing both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.

• Skin conditioning – provides emollient and moisturizing properties, leaving skin smooth and soft.

• Biocompatibility – well-tolerated by skin and mucous membranes.

• Non-ionic – compatible with a wide range of ingredients, surfactants, and pH levels.

• Thermal stability – maintains performance under normal processing and storage conditions.

• Biodegradable and derived from renewable plant-based sources.

Applications

• Skin care: Creams, lotions, moisturizers, sunscreens – provides stable emulsions, improves texture, and enhances skin conditioning.

• Hair care: Shampoos, conditioners, styling products – offers mild cleansing, conditioning, and improved manageability.

• Cleansing products: Body washes, facial cleansers, baby washes – provides gentle cleansing with a pleasant skin feel.

• Emulsions: Stabilizes O/W and W/O systems, ensuring product consistency and stability.

• Household: Used in mild cleaning products and fabric softeners.

Key Benefits

• Effective emulsification with a mild profile – suitable for sensitive skin.

• Provides emollient, skin-softening, and moisturizing properties.

• Biodegradable and of natural origin – environmentally friendly.

• Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

• Available in various grades for tailored performance and formulation flexibility.

• Improves product spreadability and sensory feel.

• Reduces irritation potential of primary surfactants in cleansing formulations.

Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and conditioning effect. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.

Safety and Handling

• Generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care at recommended concentrations.

• Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin and eyes.

• Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.

• Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

• Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.

Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.