Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate – Mild Non-Ionic Emulsifier for Stable Cosmetics and Personal Care Formulations
Basic Information
INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
CAS Number: 33940-99-7 (common for polyglyceryl-3 oleate; check specific grade)
Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or waxy solid
HLB Value: ~8–9 (lipophilic, suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions)
Solubility: Dispersible in oils and organic solvents; slightly soluble in water
Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from light and moisture
Overview
Polyglyceryl-3 oleate is a non-ionic monoester produced by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 (triglycerin) with one molecule of oleic acid. This structure provides a balanced hydrophilic-lipophilic profile, with the three glycerol units offering sufficient hydrophilicity and the oleate group providing lipophilicity. It effectively reduces interfacial tension in oil-water systems, making it an excellent emulsifier, stabilizer, and skin-conditioning agent. It is mild, biocompatible, and biodegradable, making it suitable for sensitive skin and natural cosmetic formulations.
Key Properties
Non-ionic – compatible with a wide range of ingredients and pH levels.
Amphiphilic – reduces interfacial tension, stabilizing O/W and W/O emulsions.
Good skin compatibility and mildness – suitable for sensitive skin.
Biocompatible and low toxicity – safe for topical applications.
Biodegradable and derived from renewable plant-based sources (glycerol and oleic acid).
Provides smooth, elegant textures and enhances skin feel.
Applications
Cosmetics and personal care: Used as a primary or co-emulsifier in creams, lotions, serums, sunscreens, makeup removers, and hair care products. Provides stable, elegant textures with good spreadability and moisturizing properties.
Pharmaceuticals: Employed as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and penetration enhancer in topical ointments, creams, and suppositories.
Food industry: Used as a food additive (E475) and emulsifier in margarines, spreads, sauces, dressings, and baked goods. Improves texture, stability, and mouthfeel.
Industrial: Applied as a dispersant, lubricant, and anti-foaming agent in specialty chemical formulations.
Key Benefits
Effective emulsification for both O/W and W/O systems.
Mild and non-irritating – suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.
Biocompatible, biodegradable, and of natural origin.
Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic, food, and pharmaceutical ingredients.
Provides stable, elegant textures with good spreadability.
Acts as a co-emulsifier and viscosity modifier in complex formulations.
Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and texture. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.
Safety and Handling
Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for use in food and cosmetics at recommended concentrations.
Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin and mucous membranes.
Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.
Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.
Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.
Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.