Polyglyceryl-3 Coconut Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Coconut Oleate – Mild Non-Ionic Emulsifier for Skin and Hair Care

Basic Information

• INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-3 Coconut Oleate

• CAS Number: Varies by specific grade; typically 9004-96-0 (generic for polyglyceryl esters)

• Synonyms: Polyglycerol-3 coconut oleate, triglycerol coconut oleate

• Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or waxy solid

• HLB Value: ~8–10 (oil-in-water emulsifier)

• Solubility: Dispersible in oils and organic solvents; forms stable O/W emulsions

• Origin: Plant-derived (polyglycerin from vegetable glycerol + coconut fatty acids)

• Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from light and moisture

Chemical Structure and Synthesis
Polyglyceryl-3 coconut oleate is produced by the esterification of polyglycerin-3 (triglycerin) with fatty acids derived from coconut oil, which are rich in oleic acid (C18:1) along with other medium-chain fatty acids (lauric, myristic, palmitic). The general structure can be represented as:
(Gly)₃–O–CO–R
where (Gly)₃ is the polyglycerol block, and R represents the coconut fatty acid chains (predominantly oleate). The synthesis is carried out under controlled conditions with acid or base catalysts to achieve the desired esterification degree, resulting in a product with excellent amphiphilic properties.

Physicochemical Properties

• Amphiphilic – balances hydrophilic polyglycerol head and lipophilic coconut fatty acid chains, effectively reducing interfacial tension.

• Emulsifying activity – stabilizes oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, providing fine, uniform textures with good stability.

• Mildness – low irritation potential, making it suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.

• Skin conditioning – imparts softness and smoothness, enhancing the sensory feel of formulations.

• Non-ionic – compatible with a wide range of surfactants, ingredients, and pH levels.

• Biodegradable and derived from renewable plant-based sources.

Applications

• Hair care: Shampoos, conditioners, styling products – provides mild cleansing, conditioning, and improved manageability.

• Skin care: Creams, lotions, moisturizers, sunscreens – offers stable emulsions with light, non-greasy feel.

• Cleansing products: Body washes, facial cleansers, baby washes – delivers gentle cleansing with a pleasant skin feel.

• Color cosmetics: Foundations, primers – enhances pigment dispersion and application.

• Other: Suitable for use in microemulsions and as a co-emulsifier in complex formulations.

Key Benefits

• Effective O/W emulsification with stable, fine textures.

• Mild and non-irritating – ideal for sensitive skin and baby care.

• Provides skin conditioning and moisturizing properties.

• Biodegradable and environmentally friendly.

• Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.

• Enhances product spreadability and sensory feel.

Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and skin feel. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.

Safety and Handling

• Generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics at recommended concentrations.

• Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin and eyes.

• Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.

• Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

• Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.

Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.