Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate (Lipophilic Emulsifier)

Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate – Lipophilic Non-Ionic Emulsifier for Stable and Textured Cosmetic Formulations

Basic Information

• INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate

• CAS Numbers: 95461-64-6; also referenced as 94561-64-6

• Synonyms: Decaglyceryl pentastearate, Decaglycerin pentastearate, Octadecanoic acid pentaester with decaglycerol

• Molecular Formula: C₁₂₀H₂₃₂O₂₆

• Molecular Weight: ~2091.15 g/mol

• Appearance: White to pale yellow granules or waxy solid

• HLB Value: ~3.5 (lipophilic, W/O emulsifier)

• Origin: Derived from vegetable sources (plant-based)

• Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from moisture and light

Overview
Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate is a lipophilic non-ionic surfactant produced by the esterification of polyglycerin (with an average of ten glycerol units) with five molecules of stearic acid. This high degree of esterification results in a predominantly lipophilic character, making it an effective water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier. It is a PEG-free, plant-derived emulsifier with excellent salt and acid resistance, high safety, and good skin compatibility.

Key Properties

• Highly lipophilic – suitable for W/O emulsions and oil-rich systems.

• Non-ionic – compatible with a wide range of ingredients and pH levels.

• Excellent salt and acid resistance – maintains stability in challenging formulations.

• Provides unique textural characteristics and viscosity control.

• Acts as a viscosity builder, dispersant, and stabilizer.

• High stability in emulsion systems and adaptability to various pH environments.

• PEG-free, biodegradable, and derived from renewable plant-based sources.

Applications

• Cosmetics and personal care: Used as a primary or co-emulsifier in W/O creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup products to create stable, viscous emulsions with unique textures and controlled distribution of active ingredients.

• Skin care: Provides emollient and skin-softening properties.

• Sunscreen formulations: Improves water resistance and stabilizes UV filters.

• Decorative cosmetics: Enhances texture and uniformity in foundations, lipsticks, and other color cosmetics.

• Pharmaceuticals: Employed in topical ointments and controlled-release formulations as a lipophilic emulsifier and consistency agent.

• Industrial: Used as a dispersant and stabilizer in specialty formulations.

Key Benefits

• Effective W/O emulsification with high stability and viscosity build.

• Excellent salt and acid resistance – stable in demanding formulations.

• Provides unique, controlled textures with good spreadability.

• Mild and non-irritating – suitable for sensitive skin.

• PEG-free, biodegradable, and of natural plant origin.

• Compatible with a wide range of lipophilic ingredients.

• Acts as a thickener, dispersant, and stabilizer in emulsion systems.

Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and texture. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.

Safety and Handling

• Generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics at recommended concentrations.

• Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin.

• Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.

• Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

• Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.

Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, HLB, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.