Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate – Non-Ionic O/W Emulsifier and Skin Conditioner for Cosmetic Formulations
Chemical Structure and Synthesis
Polyglyceryl-10 myristate is a non-ionic ester produced by the esterification of polyglycerin-10 (decaglycerin, a polymer of ten glycerol units) with myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid, C14:0), a saturated fatty acid commonly found in nutmeg, palm kernel oil, and coconut oil. The synthesis can be represented as:
(Gly)₁₀–OH + CH₃(CH₂)₁₂COOH → (Gly)₁₀–O–CO–(CH₂)₁₂CH₃ + H₂O
The extended hydrophilic polyglycerol chain (ten glycerol units) provides excellent water solubility, while the myristate chain offers lipophilic character, creating a balanced amphiphilic molecule with outstanding emulsifying properties.
Physicochemical Properties
Amphiphilic – balances hydrophilic polyglycerol head and lipophilic myristate chain, effectively reducing interfacial tension.
Emulsifying activity – stabilizes oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, providing fine, stable, and elegant textures.
Skin conditioning – acts as an emollient, smoothing and softening skin, imparting a non-greasy, pleasant feel.
Texturizing effect – improves viscosity, spreadability, and overall sensory properties of formulations.
Non-ionic – compatible with a wide range of surfactants, ingredients, and pH levels.
Thermal stability – maintains performance under normal processing and storage conditions.
Biodegradable and derived from renewable plant-based sources.
Applications
Skin care: Creams, lotions, moisturizers, serums, sunscreens – provides stable, elegant O/W emulsions with excellent spreadability and a light, non-greasy feel.
Hair care: Shampoos, conditioners – offers mild conditioning and improved manageability.
Cleansing products: Micellar waters, facial cleansers, body washes – delivers gentle cleansing with a pleasant skin feel.
Color cosmetics: Foundations, primers – enhances pigment dispersion and application.
Food industry: Used as a food emulsifier and texturizer in various applications.
Other: Suitable for use in microemulsions and as a co-emulsifier in complex formulations.
Key Benefits
Effective O/W emulsification with stable, elegant textures.
Provides emollient, skin-softening, and moisturizing properties.
Improves product spreadability and sensory feel.
Mild and non-irritating – suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.
Biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic and food ingredients.
Acts as a co-emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer in complex formulations.
Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and skin feel. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.
Safety and Handling
Generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics and food at recommended concentrations.
Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin and eyes.
Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.
Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.
Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.
Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.