Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate – High-HLB Non-Ionic Emulsifier for Stable Cosmetics and Personal Care Formulations
Basic Information
INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
CAS Number: 91824-88-5 (common for polyglyceryl isostearates; specific grade may vary)
Synonyms: Decaglyceryl monoisostearate, Polyglycerol-10 isostearate, PG-10 Isostearate
Appearance: Pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or waxy solid
HLB Value: Medium (suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions)
Solubility: Soluble in oils and organic solvents; dispersible in water
Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place, protected from light and moisture
Chemical Structure and Synthesis
Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate is a non-ionic monoester produced by the selective esterification of polyglycerin-10 (decaglycerin) with one molecule of isostearic acid. The synthesis can be represented as follows:
PG₁₀ + Isostearic Acid → Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate + H₂O
where PG₁₀ denotes polyglycerin-10. The retention of multiple free hydroxyl groups from the ten glycerol units provides excellent water solubility, while the isostearyl chain offers lipophilicity, creating a balanced amphiphilic structure that effectively reduces interfacial tension and stabilizes both water-in-oil (W/O) and oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
Physicochemical Properties
High hydrophilicity: The ten glycerol units provide excellent water compatibility and dispersibility.
Balanced amphiphilicity: The single isostearyl chain ensures optimal emulsifying activity for both O/W and W/O systems.
Effective emulsifying activity: Significantly reduces interfacial tension, ensuring stable and homogeneous emulsions with a smooth, non-greasy feel.
Broad compatibility: Non-ionic nature ensures compatibility with a wide range of ingredients, surfactants, and pH levels.
Thermal and chemical stability: Resistant to hydrolysis and oxidation under normal processing and storage conditions.
Good skin compatibility: Mild and non-irritating, suitable for sensitive skin and baby care products.
Biodegradable and derived from renewable plant-based sources.
Applications
Cosmetics and personal care: Used as a primary or co-emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer in O/W and W/O creams, lotions, serums, sunscreens, makeup removers, lip cosmetics, and hair care products. Provides stable, elegant textures with good spreadability, moisturizing properties, and emollient benefits.
Pharmaceuticals: Employed as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and penetration enhancer in topical ointments, creams, and suppositories for uniform distribution of active ingredients.
Industrial: Applied as a dispersant, lubricant, and stabilizer in specialty chemical formulations.
Key Benefits
Effective emulsification for both O/W and W/O systems.
Mild and non-irritating – suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.
Emollient properties – softens and conditions skin and hair.
Excellent spreading and moisturization.
Thermal and chemical stability – reliable performance over time.
Biocompatible, biodegradable, and of natural origin.
Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and industrial ingredients.
Acts as a co-emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer in complex formulations.
Recommended Use
Typical usage levels range from 1–5% of the formulation, depending on the desired emulsion stability, viscosity, and texture. For optimal performance, dissolve in the oil phase at elevated temperatures (60–70°C) before emulsification. Can be combined with co-emulsifiers and thickeners for tailored rheology.
Safety and Handling
Generally recognized as safe for use in cosmetics and personal care at recommended concentrations.
Low irritation potential; well-tolerated by skin and mucous membranes.
Avoid contact with strong oxidizers and acids.
Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.
Use appropriate personal protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles) when handling.
Quality Assurance
Each batch is tested for acid value, saponification value, and emulsification performance to ensure consistent quality.