Polyglycerol-10 Oleate – Hydrophilic Emulsifier and Skin Conditioner for Natural Cosmetics and Food

1. Chemical Nature and Structure

Polyglycerol-10 oleate (Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate) is a non-ionic ester formed by the esterification of oleic acid with polyglycerol containing an average of ten glycerol units. The molecule combines a hydrophobic (lipophilic) oleic acid chain with a hydrophilic (polyol) head group consisting of ten glycerin units. This amphiphilic structure provides strong emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Probable CAS: 304656-76-0 (also listed as 79665-93-3 and 9007-48-1)
HLB: ~12.0 (hydrophilic, O/W emulsifier)
Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow or yellow-brown viscous liquid

2. Physicochemical Properties

  • Density: 1.05–1.10 g/cm³

  • Solubility: Miscible with polar solvents; emulsifies oils; dispersible in water

  • Storage: In tightly sealed containers at +5 to +25°C

  • Stability: Good heat and cold stability; excellent salt and acid resistance

  • pH (typical): ~7.0

  • Self-assembly: Forms liposomal bilayer structures at critical concentrations rather than conventional micelles

3. Applications

Cosmetics and personal care: Serves as a primary oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier, skin conditioning agent, solubilizer, and surfactant. Used in creams, lotions, shampoos, sunscreens, makeup removers, and cleansing products. Provides light, stable emulsions with rich texture and good sensorial properties.

Natural and green cosmetics: PEG-free, plant-derived, readily biodegradable, and approved for COSMOS, ECOCERT, and NATRUE certifications. Natural Origin Index (NOI) = 1.

Food industry: Used as an emulsifier in margarines, spreads, sauces, and salad dressings (subject to regulatory compliance).

Decorative cosmetics: Improves pigment dispersibility.

4. Safety and Toxicology

  • Low irritation index; suitable for sensitive skin

  • Non-comedogenic

  • No sensitizing effects at recommended concentrations

  • Safe for use up to 6% in cosmetic formulations

  • EWG safety score: 1–2 (low concern)

5. Environmental Profile

  • Readily biodegradable

  • Plant-derived (vegetable oils and glycerin)

  • Minimal environmental impact

  • Palm-free options available (sunflower oil-derived)

6. Conclusion

Polyglycerol-10 oleate is a versatile, mild, and environmentally friendly non-ionic emulsifier widely used in natural cosmetics, personal care, and food applications. Its excellent emulsifying properties, skin compatibility, and biodegradability make it a preferred choice for clean and sustainable formulations.

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